Lima Enchanted

Even though we hadn’t really spent much time in Lima proper, we felt like pros when we arrived back in the city.  We had working cell phones, knew how to navigate the airport and even where to get money. Being on the road so much, this little feeling of familiarity felt so unusual...and so appreciated!

Although we stayed in Miraflores - an upmarket suburb popular with tourists - we spent a fair bit of time in the downtown core. 

The city centre has seen an incredible resurgence in the past few years.  The government has taken a tough stance on the crime and drugs that used to run rampant there and gone through the city core - basically building by building - to drive it all out. From there, the government then cleared out almost all of the apartment buildings, refurbishing the ground floor for shops and preparing the upper floors for residential use.  As a result, people are starting to move back downtown and the positive energy pulses through the city center.  No doubt, Geoff saw an incredible investment opportunity for Lima real estate!  

In order to improve employment opportunities, the government has also encouraged people from the Andean countryside and the nearby shanty towns to run the ground-floor shops.  These individuals also conduct the tours of local landmarks such as Monastery De San Francisco, the Cathedral of Lima, the Plaza De Armas (considered the birthplace of Lima), the Government Palace and the Palace of the Union.  

The Monastery De San Francisco is a UNESCO heritage site and supposedly the oldest colonial Monastery in South America, having been built in 1673.  The monastery was skillfully built to withstand Lima's frequent earthquakes, using wood columns and beams to allow the building more flexibility and movement when the heavy winds hit.  What was less impressive was the Monastery's catacombs, which had piles of bones heaped everywhere and a torture chamber that offered a direct view into the main church area. The horrific torture rituals they used to “encourage” people to convert were chilling and made us ready to get out of there very quickly. 

Near to the historic center is the National Museum.  The enormous building was actually heavily under construction and most of it closed off to the public.  There was one exhibit still open, however, and it was a powerful one.    Focusing on Lima between 1980-2000, the photograph exhibit detailed the terror inflicted by the Shining Path terrorist group and the emerging para military response.  Although we couldn’t understand all the Spanish commentary, the pictures spoke strongly enough for themselves.    

Although Lima is a desert, the city constantly felt like it was on the verge of a downpour (the grey skies very common at this time of year and "lovingly" referred to as "the grey monster"). But it never did.   And so we spent our downtime, puttering around Miraflores and Barranco, two communities perched on the rocks high above the water.Barranco has a more rugged and hippie-like feel than the more polished Miraflores but both had welcoming and lively vibes and were great for an afternoon stroll.    

We also spent some time San Isidro, Lima’s business district and perhaps the most upmarket area in town.  Our timing was perhaps not ideal, however, as the Peru-Chile football match happening at the same time made the streets eerily quiet as they all watched at the more lively bars in Miraflores and the downtown core.  Perhaps it was best though that the boutiques and shops were closed for the game - these ritzy shops were likely well above our pay grade!

The parasailers over Miraflores